This is a hot topic and I so excited to tell you all my secrets to make it successful. I get asked at every show experience, "How do you train Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot?" We have tried several styles of training and we have found the 3 key elements to successful training. In this article, I am going to share with you one of those key elements to success: target training.
NOTE: You will notice I have links to products so you can see what I'm referring to. I don't sell these items and I am not posting them to make a commission. I truly hope it's helpful to you!
What is Target Training?
Target training is teaching your parrot (or any animal) to touch a target. It's that simple! Most animals are target trained to touch the target with their nose or beak. Just about anything can be used as a target, the most popular targets for parrots are slender sticks with a "lollipop" looking ball at the end. I'll talk more about different types of targets in a little bit.
Why Target Train Your Parrot?
Target training can be useful in many applications. I target train Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot to easily learn new tricks like stepping up on his skateboard. Zoos often use target training to "call" animals to a specific location to be fed. Vets recommend the use of target training to help will chronic conditions. Recently I saw a video of a macaw parrot who was target trained to hold his beak against the target while his caregiver administered eye drops into this parrot's eyes, WOW! You can accomplish so much when your target train your parrot.
What You Need to Start Target Training Your Parrot
Target
Use something you already have at your house.
target stick with clicker
As I mentioned before, you can use almost anything. The first target I used was a free chopstick I got from the Chinese cuisine around the corner from my house. You could also use a spoon for a more blunt target, or a knitting needle for a longer target.
Use a professionals target.
TARGET STICK WITH CLICKER. Now that I have more experience, I have fallen in love with the clicker target combo. It's convenient and comfortable for you to handle. It has a lollipop end to it so its easy for your parrot to touch. If you are also clicker training (click here if you missed my article on clicker training), then you need this. It solves the age-old problem of juggling a clicker and target in one hand! Click Here to read more about this clicker:Karen Pryor Clicker Training Terry Ryan Clik Stik for Pet Training
lollipop style target stick
LOLLIPOP TARGET STICK. If your not clicker training, a basic target stick is all you need. You will want one with a telescoping handle so you can adjust it to the environment. If your parrot is on their play stand, you will need something longer than if your parrot is on your lap. Click Here to see this target stick.
BUOY TARGET STICK. Remember the macaw I mentioned before who was target trained to get his eye drops? He was target trained with a buoy target. They are more commonly found for large animal training. You can see it here.
Parrot
In addition to having a target, the other thing you need is your parrot! If you don't already have a parrot and you are reading this to learn everything you need to know BEFORE you get a parrot, good job! I'm proud of you, give yourself a pat on the back. I have a lot of resources for new and future parrot owners so stay on this blog and look around for some of those articles.
How to Target Train Your Parrot
Question for you: I have clips of Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot when he started target training, Would you like to see them? Write a comment and let me know you want me to post videos.
When I target trained Kiwi, within the first day he started to understand what to do, after a few more sessions, he began targeting like a pro. So don't be nervous, it's very easy. Have fun with your parrot!
Step 1:
In a neutral training area, allow your parrot to see the target. Once your parrot is comfortable with it, you can begin moving it closer to your parrot. Your parrot may be curious and initiate touching the target to find out what it is, if so you are one step ahead and jump to Step 3.
Step 2:
Gently touch the tip of the target to the tip of your parrot's beak. Immediately reward your parrot with a small treat or clicker.
Step 3:
Hold the target an inch away to allow your parrot to initiate touching the target. Continue to give small rewards when your parrot's beak contacts the target.
Step 4:
Each time your parrot successfully touches the target, move the target away from your parrot (less than an inch at a time).
Conclusion
Once your parrot is successfully target trained, you should be able to stand at the opposite end of the room as your parrot, and when your parrot sees the target, it will make its way to it. Target training is very useful for training your parrot to make particular movements. Let me know what you think about target training. Leave a comment with pics of your parrot target training experience!
Adding enrichment in the form of recreation and exercise is essential to your parrot's well-being. Trick training is a great way to give your parrot recreation and exercise. Adding enrichment in the form of recreation and exercise will minimize negative behaviors such as screaming, biting, aggression, and feather plucking. Plus parrots love the attention they get when they perform tricks. Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot was suffering from feather plucking. While his vet and I agree that there may be several factors that lead to his feather destructive behavior, one thing that has helped him recover was the addition of trick training and his skateboarding.
Why Does Clicker Training Work?
Clicker training instantly rewards a behavior so your parrot clearly understands what behavior is being rewarded. Treat training (giving a treat when your parrot performs a command) is not as effective. Your parrot may become confused about why it's getting a treat: because it turned around or because it leaned forward to get the treat. Don't get me wrong, you will still use treats but your parrot will listen for the clicker to know if it did something good and be motivated to perform because the parrot wants the treat that comes after the clicker. When I first started clicker training, I thought it was just adding an unnecessary step to reward training, but then I discovered it's one of the secret steps to successful training!
The Goal of Clicker Training.
The goal of clicker training is to teach your parrot that the sound made by a clicker means the parrot (or another animal) performed correctly. Here is what it will look like when your parrot is clicker trained.:
Kiwi's favorite treats are banana chips. I really like to give him banana chips because I can easily break them into small pieces so he doesn't eat too much. You never want your parrot to because full and disinterested in the treat while training. Also, keep health in mind, try to keep your parrot's diet balanced, don't give too many sugary fruits. Most of the banana chips and other dried fruit you find at the store have extra sugar and additives. To find healthy banana chips, you will need to go to a health food store or you can buy these from Amazon: Gerbs Banana Chips Unsweetened, 2 LBS – Unsulfured & Preservative Free
Parrot:
If you don't already have a parrot, there is probably a local rescue who would love to help you become a forever home for a parrot. Contact a certified avian vet to get a referral or comment below with your location and we will try to connect you to a reputable rescue.
How to Clicker Train
1. Teach your parrot to associate the clicker with a reward.
This is just like Pavlov's dog and Classical Conditioning [1]. Think of the clicker as being the bell. Now click the clicker and give your parrot a treat. Do this a few times until your parrot begins to expect a treat after it hears the "click" of the training clicker.
2. A Command + A Click + A Treat
Now, add an easy command such as, "turn" or "target" (subscribe to read next week's post on Target Training). Every time your parrot makes an approximation or a step towards your command, give a click, then follow with a treat. Read more about approximations in the previous blog post. You want to click the clicker instantly so your parrot knows what it did right and you don't give a click for it doing the wrong thing. Here's an example:
Your teaching your parrot to turn around. You should instantly click when your parrot moves its head in the way you want it to go. If you click too late you might unintentionally be reinforcing your parrot to return to its original position. Write me a comment if you want to make a video of dos and don'ts.
3. A Command + A Click
Now that your parrot is getting the idea that the click means it did good, after your parrot makes an approximation toward your command, only give a click (no treat). Every other time give your parrot a treat, then go down to every 3rd time, 4th time, etc. Ultimately you should only use the clicker but it's still good to end training with a positive treat.
Conclusion
Parrots are very intelligent creatures and need lots of recreation, and exercise. Trick training can be a good way to challenge your parrot and interact with it. The easiest way to start trick training is with clicker training. Train your parrot to know it did well when it hears a "click" of the clicker.
I would love to hear about your success! In the comments, post your videos and photos of you and your parrot practicing clicker training.
Sources
[1] Ivan Pavlov and Classical Conditioning: Theory, Experiments & Contributions to Psychology - Video & Lesson Transcript | Study.com. (2020). Study.Com. https://study.com/academy/lesson/ivan-pavlov-and-classical-conditioning-theory-experiments-contributions-to-psychology.html#:~:text=Pavlov%20said%20the%20dogs%20were,an%20unconditioned%20response%20(salivation).
Introduction To Rewarding Your Parrot for Positive Approximations
Training is an essential part of a parrot's wellbeing. When you begin training your parrot you may not know where to start. In this article is the absolute most important concept in training your parrot. This is the first secret to success that I will be sharing with you. My parrot, Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot has become nationally recognized for his skateboarding tricks, talking, and dance moves. While I tried different approaches, the keys in this article have proven most successful.
NOTE: Throughout this blog, you may find products with links. I am not trying to sell these products or get a big commission from you buying them. I am only including the link to help you easily find the products I find beneficial.
1. Rewards and Positive Reinforcement That Your Parrot Will Love
What is a Reinforcement for a Parrot?
Wikipedia defines reinforcement this way "In behavioral psychology, reinforcement is a consequence applied that will strengthen an organism's future behavior whenever that behavior is preceded by a specific antecedent stimulus." This definition, though a little wordy is spot on. Basically, a reinforcement is a consequence or reaction to something your parrot does. You may not have realized it but your parrot already has learned this. Every time your parrot swings it's toy, the bell at the bottom rings. Your Parrot knows that as a consequence of playing with that toy, your parrot gets to hear the annoyingly loud bell ring, this gives your parrot pleasure (whether it's your agitated reaction or it's the actual sound of the bell).
Reinforcements can be negative or positive. We are only going to talk about positive reinforcement. You will have much more success and a healthier bond with your parrot if you only use positive reinforcements when training.
The Best Types of Positive Reinforcements for Parrots.
Now let's take that same concept as the toy with the bell but in the application of training. Let's say you are teaching your parrot to turn in a circle. When your parrot turns around on cue, you want to reinforce good behavior so your parrot will repeat the action. What is the best way to positively reinforce good behavior? With a reward!
Verbal
Say "Good bird" or another affirmative response as soon as your parrot performs a command.
An approximation is a small step or movement toward the desired trick. When you first tell your parrot to "turn around" it won't know what that means and probably won't make a full turn. But it might make an approximation. Move your finger in the direction you want it to go if your parrot turns it's head in the correct direction, THAT'S AN APPROXIMATION!
Why are Approximations Important for My Parrot?
Just like all creatures, your parrot needs time to learn a new trick. If you expect your parrot to complete the trick the first time, both you and your parrot will become discouraged very quickly. You want your training sessions to be short and positive. Always end on a positive, even if it is a small approximation.
3. Rewarding Your Parrot for Approximations
Now it's time to discuss how the positive reinforcement and approximations work together. Every time your parrot makes an approximation, reward with your parrot's favorite treat or whatever positive reinforcement you prefer. Remember our example to "Turn Around"? After your parrot turns it's head, you can say "good bird" and give it a treat. Now you did it! You used a positive reinforcement to reward an approximation!
Conclusion of Rewarding Your Parrot for Positive Approximations
Do you want to teach your parrot to turn around or do another trick? Keep reading my next posts to learn more about teaching this trick. Write a comment letting me know you want to me to make a video of Kiwi learning "Turn Around" or another trick.
References
Wikipedia Contributors. (2020, May 29). Reinforcement. Wikipedia; Wikimedia Foundation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinforcement
6 Things You Need Before You Start Training Your Parrot
For those of you who don't know me, I spend a lot of my time training Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot. My work with Kiwi and experience training other animals has given me a lot of experience with training techniques and tools. I put together a list of my very favorite training tools and I'm sharing the list with you!
Do you want to know more about training techniques such as Clicker Training, Target Training, Positive Reinforcements, and Approximations? It's coming soon so subscribe to my blog so you will not miss it. Or join our mailing list HERE.
For your convenience, you will find the links to the products I talk about in this article. I post them because I like them, not for a commission.
#6 Your Parrot's Favorite Food
You want to be prepared to reward your parrot when they do what you ask. The easiest way to do this is by positively reinforcing their good behavior with food!
Kiwi (my parrot) loves these Banana Chips! You can have Gerbs Banana Chips Unsweetened, 1 LB – Unsulfured & Preservative Free shipped straight to your door from Amazon. Can You Say EASY?! Oh and they are food grade so it's okay if you snack on them as well. You don't want your parrot to get full, instead, keep them wanting more during training, so only give them a little. I break the pieces into large crumb sizes.
Some people use millet to feed their parrot as a reward. You can give one tiny grain to your parrot each time he/she performs a positive behavior.
When choosing a food to give to your parrot for training, pick something healthy, organic is always best. Look at the list of ingredients and be sure it's sugar-free. If your not sure if something is safe for a parrot to eat, ask your avian vet or check our list of safe & dangerous foods. CLICK HERE.
#5 Training Pouch
What better way to say "Yeah, I know what I'm doing" then with a training pouch. Not only will your parrot respect you for wearing it, but it will also be a great place to keep all those little pieces of treats.
I especially love the Karen Pryor Clicker Training Black Treat Pouch by Terry Ryan. The bag closes easily and has an exterior zipper pocket you can keep extra things like your clicker (keep reading to learn more about clickers).
Here's the description from Amazon: "The Terry Ryan Treat Pouch features a super strong hinge that stays open for easy access to food or toys. In addition to creating quick and easy access to treats, the pouch easily closes with a touch and stays closed, keeping dog noses out. The belt is adjustable and detachable, giving you the option to simply clip the pouch onto your belt or pocket. Storage pocket is large enough to fit your entire hand and an additional zippered pocket is the perfect size for holding money, ID or your pack of gum. Key ring keeps your clicker, whistle, or keys handy. Features water resistant lining for easy cleaning and is machine washable. Includes a Training Tips booklet by Terry Ryan."
#4 Clicker
As I mentioned in the introduction, I will be writing another post about clicker training but if you don't know anything about clicker training, here's a short explanation: Remember Pavlov and his dog? (if you don't just google it). Well, the clicker is like the bell. When your parrot does what you ask, you click the clicker, then give a treat. When you do this pattern enough, your parrot will start to recognize the clicker as a positive reinforcement and they will know they did something good.
If you are thinking of clicker training, you will want to get a good clicker. I love my big button clicker. It's easy to click and the wrist band keeps it easy to carry. You can get your Liobaba Animal Pet Dog Training Clicker with Wrist Bands Strap, Assorted Color Dog Clickers for Pet Dog Training on Amazon.
Be sure to get a good big button clicker. They are not expensive and much easier to use than some other versions.
#3 Target
If your parrot is target trained, you can teach him/her to do almost anything! This COA Target Stick makes target training easy. It has a telescoping arm so it's easy to store and you can use it short or fulling extended for larger movements. Don't forget, keep reading this blog to learn more about target training.
The bright color and design of the COA Target Stick is definitely best for training but if you have a tight budget or your want to start target training before your COA Target Stick arrives, you can use anything as a target. I started target training Kiwi with a chopstick! It worked great! Just make sure you don't use something too sharp in case your parrot luges at it.
Here's the Amazon description: The COA Target Stick is a key accessory for clicker training. A soft rubber bulb provides a visual target to guide the dog. Also retracts to a convenient size for transport in your pocket or treat bag. COA training products are used every day at Dr. Roger Mugford’s Training and Behavior Centre and, through this environment, we have created a comprehensive training range that enables owners and trainers to teach a dog anything from a simple sit, through to advanced tricks.
#2 Target with Clicker
And we are now at the runner up of my favorite parrot training tools, The Karen Pryor Clicker Training Terry Ryan Clik Stik for Pet Training. This is a phenomenal combo with both the target stick and the clicker. It's easy to hold and handle at the same time as handling your parrot. If you are target training and clicker training, you want to use this combo. The target has a telescoping arm and the clicker has a big button for easy and precise use. As a bonus, it even has a clip on the back to attach it to your pocket, or the treat bag. Here's the description from Amazon:
"The Clik Stik is an all-in-one clicker and retractable target stick —perfect for trick and target training. Terry Ryan says "The Clik Stik combination frees up one of the trainer's hands. This combination means there's one less piece of equipment to drop, juggle or lose." A wonderful tool for teaching targeting, contacts and weave poles, send-away or go-outs, heeling and lots more. Target extends from 6- 23 Inch and handle includes a belt clip for easy carrying."
1# Training Stand
And we are now at my number one favorite training tool, the Xerch Perch Parrot Play Stand T-Perch. When you're picking a training perch, the most important feature is it needs to be stable. You want your parrot to feel confidant and safe on their training stand and this stand is super sturdy. It is designed to support a parrot as large as a hyacinth but comfortable enough for smaller parrots such as conures.
The location of your training is also important, you want to train your parrot in a neutral location (what is a neutral location you ask? Basically it's a place that your parrot won't feel overly comfortable in and end up distracted wanting to play, and its also not a place that your parrot will feel intimidated. The goal of a neutral area is to have a confident and focused parrot. We will talk about this more in the training techniques post coming soon). The Xerch Perch Parrot Play Stand T-Perch is designed to easily add casters so you can wheel it around from your parrot's play area to your neutral training location.
Share Your Favorites
So now you know my favorite training tools. What are your favorites? Comment and let me know what products you like. Do you make your own or do you buy them? Include links and pictures. I would love to see what works for you!
If your parrot has started plucking and you’re reading this to find out what to do, skip this and go to "Part 2: Help! My Parrot is Plucking Its Feathers. What Should I Do?" But before you read it, GRAB YOUR PHONE AND CALL YOUR AVIAN VET! In Part 2, I will discuss more emergency solutions to protect your parrot.
This is a bonus post of a 5 part mini-series about feather plucking in parrots. Be sure to subscribe so you won't miss this really important series. Part 1: Feather Plucking or Molting?
Okay, so your parrot (or perhaps, guinea pig, hamster, cat, dog, or other pet) just had surgery, has a medical issue, feather plucking problem, or other condition that requires a barrier to keep it safe. In the first few weeks, the “cone of same” provided this safe barrier (along with lots of giggles and jokes) but your vet gives you the ok to remove it. Now think about this, the “lampshade” head has become part of your parrot, and, as we all know, Parrots Hate Change!
No parrot likes changes that are cold turkey (pun intended). So, with the okay of your avian vet, transition your parrot into a soft Elizabethan collar. It’s easy and inexpensive to make and it still provides protection without hindering your parrot’s mobility and much-needed play and foraging time.
In this post we will refer to these collars as plucking ponchos but they may also be called soft e-collar, soft Elizabethan collar, or soft collars.
Note
Remember, collars are only short-term solutions and do not cure the problem. The purpose of using a collar is to provide a barrier from your parrot further damaging itself. If your parrot has started plucking its feathers or any type of mutilation, you might try this inexpensive idea. Kiwi plucked for about a year and the best barrier solution we could find was an e-collar (Elizabethan collar) from the vet. As Kiwi’s health improved, we no longer had the need for such a strong collar. We wanted him to have more ability to play and forage and wean him off the collar. As always, check with your avian vet to see if this collar is a good option for your parrot.
What Should I Use to Make a Soft Collar for My Parrot
Color
To start, use a solid color similar to your parrots feather color. This is best because it won’t be as distracting or abnormal to them. As your parrot gets used to it, you may want to have fun with festive fabrics. But you might have to try a few before you find the one your parrot likes.
The first fabric I purchased was a dark hunter green. It was the closest thing I could find to Kiwi’s green feathers. The first time I put it on him, he looked at me with a discussed glare in her eyes. Not because of the collar but because of the color of the collar. I then used the blue patterned fleece from the blanket I use to cover her cage. He did not mind that as much, and then I purchased hot-pink fabric. He seems to do well with that also. So, picking the fabric is really up to your parrot, not you.
Material
When picking a material for the soft collar, keep these things in mind:
The fabric you pick should be semi-ridged: so your parrot cannot easily tear it or pick under it.
The fabric you use should not fray: so your parrot will not ingest fibers or get a thread wrapped around its neck, wing, leg, etc.
The fabric you choose should be safe if ingested: I’m not saying fleece is safe if ingested, however, it’s the best option I have found. Don’t get a fabric with a metallic design, glitter, fluffy design, etc.
Why Polar Fleece Is The Best.
Polar Fleece, also known as Blizzard Fleece is the best choice. Fleece does not fray the same as most fabrics do.
Polar fleece, also known as Blizzard Fleece
Good for no-sew projects [1].
Two categories
Anti-pill: tends to be a more high quality fabric, and doesn’t “ball up” or “pill” after several washes [1].
Regular fleece (not anti-pill): cheaper, but will get little pills after wearing and washing [1],
Polar fleece can come in different weights, [1]. Medium weight is the best and most common to find.
I found the perfect fleece for a plucker poncho here. Its a medium-weight, anti-pill fleece at a great price! Plus, it has the most color options I can find. Your sure to find the perfect material here. Click here to order online.
Micro Fleece-Don't Use
Softer than polar fleece [1].
One side has tiny (almost furry) fibers [1].
It is thinner than the medium weight fleece. [1].
Minky Fleece / Cuddle Fleece-Don't Use
Minky (also known as Cuddle) is more fur-like [1] therefore, it should not be used around parrots.
Coral Fleece-Don't Use
Coral Fleece has a more fur-like texture [1] that may be harmful if used around parrots.
Coral Fleece will shed and stretch more than polar fleece [1].
Below is a table of fabrics in the fleece family. I found the fabric composition on Joann.com.
Cut the square pattern that best fits your parrot, you may need to customize it.
Kiwi, the Hahns Macaw normally wears the 4,” but if I notice her plucking, she graduates to the 5.”
Trace pattern and cut fleece.
This doesn’t need to be perfect so skip tracing the pattern onto the fleece and just cut along the pattern.
Fold the fleece square in half then half again to find the center.
Again, don’t worry about having a perfect round circle for the parrot’s head, cut one (.5-1”) slit.
When you unfold the square you will have nearly a perfect “X.” Snip to make it a complete “X.” Voila! You’re finished!!!
If you choose, you can round the corners or use the circle pattern so the collar is even all around.
Now, Slip it over your parrot’s head.
Its usually easiest to start below the beak, bring it up around the beak then over the head.
If it's too tight, make the “X” a little larger.
If your parrot is able to slide it off, the “X” is too large, make a note so next time you will make it smaller.
As feathers grow in thicker, you may need to adjust the “X.”
References
[1] Peterson, A. H. (n.d.). Which fleece is which? Your quick start guide to fleece. Retrieved December 20, 2015, from FleeceFun.com: http://www.fleecefun.com/1/post/2011/10/which-fleece-is-which-your-quick-start-guide-to-fleece.html
If your parrot has started plucking and you’re reading this to find out what to do, skip this and go to "Part 2: Help! My Parrot is Plucking Its Feathers. What Should I Do?" But before you read it, GRAB YOUR PHONE AND CALL YOUR AVIAN VET! In Part 2, I will discuss more emergency solutions to protect your parrot.
This is Part 4 of a 5 part mini-series about feather plucking in parrots. Be sure to subscribe so you won't miss this really important series. Part 1: Feather Plucking or Molting?
There are many reasons why a parrot will destroy its feathers. Feather plucking is just one way a parrot might exhibit Feather Destructive Behavior (FDB).
Emotional & Behavior Causes
Boredom
Insufficient activities available for a pet parrot within the cage may cause parrots to turn to their own feathers for entertainment. The pet may spend too much time in their cages (especially if the cage is too small for a parrot to move around freely in it) or a parrot doesn't have toys to entertain it. The more time a parrot spends in the cage, the bigger the cage ought to be (Feather Plucking)!
Signs
The parrot will often be playing with their feathers or watching them fall to the ground (Jones, 2015).
Diagnosis
Trial and error (Jones, 2015)
Treatment
Provide more activities, new toys, foraging toys (destructible and refillable), give your parrot more positive attention (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
The following websites provide excellent tips and tricks to occupy your parrot:
Also refer to Redirecting Negative Behaviors in Your Pet Parrot: http://beautyofbirds.com/redirectingnegativebehavior.html
(Feather Plucking)
Loneliness
Parrots are social beings. In their natural habitat, most of them occur in flocks or at least with a mate (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Similar to boredom, generalized plucking. Parrots may pluck when your not looking or showing direct attention to him/her then stop if you make a big deal about it (Jones, 2015).
How much time are you spending with your parrot? Are you investing at least the quality time recommended for your species of parrot (Jones, 2015)?
Diagnosis
Trial and error (Jones, 2015)
Treatment
Time: Spend more time with your pet parrot or provide a parrot companion.
Behavioral modification: Providing positive reinforcement and redirecting your parrot's energy towards non-destructive activities
Companionship: For a small percentage of parrots, the addition of an opposite sexed mate may eliminate the behavior. (Feather Plucking)
Stress
Signs
Generalized Plucking. Plucking is usually a more forceful action as though ripping or pulling out feathers. You may have noted changes in the parrot’s environment (Feather Plucking).
Diagnosis
Trial and error (Jones, 2015)
Treatment
Remove items or situations causing stress. If the situation cannot be removed, try to redirect your parrot's attention towards positive activities and stimuli (Feather Plucking).
Medication Treatments
Sedatives, hypnotics, and tricyclic antidepressants have been occasionally reported as an effective treatment (Feather Plucking). Anti-Psychotic
Dr. James E Bright, M.D. shared with me how he treated an “OCD” parrot with Haloperidol. This anti-psychotic is usually prescribed to humans at 5-10 mg daily. If the plucking is psychologically induced, your vet can prescribe the medication and calculate the dosage. Ask your vet about “Haloperidol oral concentrate (Jones, 2015).”
Alternative Treatments
Several parrot owners found that their pets' feather plucking stopped almost immediately after starting their pets on Avitech AviCalm Calming Supplement (for stress reduction) and Featheriffic (stimulates growth and good feather quality). They sprinkled these supplements over their food (Feather Plucking).
Other Resources
Holistic Alternatives to Medical Stress Medication (see the section about stress control) in part 2 (Jones, 2015).
Cage Location
Scientists have found that parrots with cages that allow a view of doors where people entered the room were more likely to engage in feather picking.
"For parrot owners and breeders, one thing our research shows is that it might be worth putting a lot of thought into where the cage is positioned in the room," Garner said. "I think with a lot of care and a lot of forethought, these behaviors are manageable and preventable, especially considering our earlier work that demonstrated the positive effects of social housing and environmental enrichments, such as foraging and climbing devices. (Research by Purdue University: Cage Location a Primary Factor in Emotional Feather Plucking.) (Feather Plucking)
Signs
Generalized Plucking. New cage location (Jones, 2015)
Diagnosis
Trial and error (Jones, 2015)
Treatment
Place cage away from the sight of the doorway. Also, lots of enrichment including foraging should be available to your parrot (Feather Plucking).
For more information from the research by the Purdue University into the widespread topic of abnormal behavior in parrots, including feather-plucking, read “Research by Purdue University: Cage Location a Primary Factor in Emotional Feather Plucking.” http://beautyofbirds.com/featherpluckingcagelocation.html
(Feather Plucking)
Light
Parrots enjoy the sun and like lots of light in their environment. If they are kept in dark corners, they are likely to become depressed and may turn to feather plucking or even self-mutilation. It addition, sunlight is needed to form essential Vitamin D - a lack of which has also been linked to feather picking (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Check light source and cage position (Jones, 2015).
Diagnosis
Some testing may be performed by your avian vet (Jones, 2015) (Hardy, DVM, 2015)
Treatment
Provide proper light conditions to your parrot. Some parrot owners have witnessed a total turn-around in behavior and feather condition once proper light conditions were available to their pets (Feather Plucking).
Avianweb Note: Birds benefit from natural sun rays that are unfiltered by window glass, as glass blocks necessary UV rays needed to synthesize vitamin D necessary for bone health. So it's important to open up the windows when weather conditions allow you to let the rays in (make sure that some part of the cage is in the shade to allow a bird to get out of the sun when he or she gets too hot. During the winter months, full-spectrum lamps can substitute for natural light (Feather Plucking).
Testimonials
“My bird plucked for many years, and I tried various things to get him to stop and sometimes he would, but he would always go back to plucking. That is until I bought a new house. It has a wonderful "Florida room" that has windows on three sides and two skylights. I put his cage out there thinking he'd enjoy being able to watch birds and people outside and lo- and behold, he stopped plucking. The room is unheated so he must come in during the colder months, and I got him a full-spectrum lamp which is on a timer so he gets 5 hours of "daylight" each day, and he has not plucked since then. If I had known that the light was the answer, I could have had a fully-fledged bird years ago!” ~ Leslie Tannahill (Feather Plucking)
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/lighting.html
Hormonal
One parrot plucked his chest when he was forced to watch a breeding pair of the same species that were temporarily placed into his room. As soon as the pair was relocated, the plucking stopped (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Many parrots pluck their chest area as they mature and get into breeding condition. Another typical plucking patterns for hormonal parrots may be plucking between their legs.
Diagnosis
Trial and error (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Vets first recommend that pet owners make environmental changes to reduce sexual triggers, such as removing mirrors or nest boxes and to prevent hormonal stimulation such as petting that induces this behavior and altering the light cycle to mimic winter sunlight. If all these changes fail, then drug therapy may be warranted. Drug therapy is most effective in females but has also shown effectiveness in males (Feather Plucking).
Lupron
In some cases, a vet may prescribe Lupron shots to reduce hormonal behavior. The drug Lupron turns off sexual hormones. Some parrot owners report that hormonal plucking stopped immediately after the administration of this drug and never started again. It works if the plucking is caused by hormonal frustration (Feather Plucking).
About Lupron: leuprorelin acetate has an inhibitory effect on the pituitary that should reduce the hormones FSH and LH. This drug has been used in parrots for chronic egg laying, hormonal aggression, and feather picking. Again, this is not a perfect drug and certainly not for all situations (Feather Plucking).
One-sided, unbalanced nutrition (which may have led to a disease). Deficiencies of minerals, such as calcium, zinc, selenium, manganese, and magnesium (Feather Plucking).
Signs
brittle, frayed feathers and itchy skin, which can lead to feather plucking / bald spots (Feather Plucking)
Diagnosis
Your avian vet will be able to run tests to determine malnutrition (Feather Plucking).
Treatment
Seek the advice of your avian vet. Most nutrients related issues can be resolved by introducing a supplement and improving your parrot's diet (Jones, 2015).
Dietary Deficiencies
A diet deficient in calcium, salt and/or protein could also be a cause for plucking/chewing (Feather Plucking).
Signs
plucking/chewing
Dark spots on feathers (Hardy, DVM, 2015)
Diagnosis
Your avian vet will be able to run tests to determine malnutrition (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Salt
One breeder suggested adding a separate dish salt water (1 tsp of salt to a quart of warm water) to your parrot’s cage. You may want to discuss the preceding possibilities with your vet. Calcium malabsorption problem in parrots could be brought on by an imbalance of other nutrients such as phosphorus (Feather Plucking).
Several parrot owners recommended this product and one pointed out a review on Amazon.com b J. Hall from San Pedro, CA: "This isn't a joke, but it is useful advice. I bought this oil because I have a parrot with a feather-plucking problem. I've been adding about half a teaspoonful daily to her soft food for about 3 months and the results are terrific. She's almost back to full feather and has not plucked a single pinfeather since we began adding it. This is a logical solution. Palm nuts are a part of most parrots’ natural diet. It only makes sense that red palm oil contains nutrients that are otherwise missing in a caged parrot's diet. Your mileage may vary since feather plucking is a complex mystery, but in my case, it's been a miracle cure for our cantankerous Eclectus." (Feather Plucking)
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/birdnutrition.html
Vitamin D Deficiency
Is your parrot getting enough light? Just like we do, our parrots need light to synthesize Vitamin D - also known as “the sunshine vitamin” - as it is formed when our skin is exposed to sunlight (Feather Plucking).
Signs
poor skin and feather condition, including feather picking (Feather Plucking).
Diagnosis
Your avian vet can perform a simple blood test (Feather Plucking).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/featherplucking.html#light
Also, see the section about light (above)
Low Levels of Fat
Low levels of essential fats (Feather Plucking).
Signs
dry skin (Feather Plucking)
Diagnosis
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Antibiotics (Feather Plucking)
Limiting or eliminating pellets and increasing foods/seeds high in essential fatty acids is recommended (Feather Plucking).
Food Sensitivities / Allergies
Some parrots are sensitive to wheat, corn, rice, and other grains. The itching may stop once all these are eliminated (Feather Plucking).
blood tests taken by your vet can often determine allergies (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
The itching may stop once all these are eliminated (Feather Plucking).
Other Resources
Dietary Changes and Recipes to Reduce Feather Plucking: http://beautyofbirds.com/featherpickingdiet.html
More Recipes: https://www.facebook.com/groups/recipesforfids/ (Jones, 2015)
Illness Causes
Pain
Parrots don't understand pain. For example, my elderly, handicapped cockatiel has arthritis and keeps biting his swollen joint whenever he feels in pain. When parrots are in pain, they may bite/chew on the area where the pain is concentrated or they may remove (pluck) feathers over that area. If you find your pet concentrates on one specific area - rather than randomly plucking feathers, this may be a good indication that your pet is experiencing localized pain (Feather Plucking).
Signs
If you find your pet concentrates on one specific area - rather than randomly plucking feathers, this may be a good indication that your pet is experiencing localized pain (Feather Plucking),
Diagnosis
X-rays are often recommended when pain is associated with feather picking and when the distribution of feather picking is over the back, neck or chest. The X-ray may reveal problems such as blocked gizzard, a gas extended proventriculus or cloaca, heavy metal poisoning, foreign bodies, enlarged spleen, and air sac disease. One parrot who plucked his neck feathers just over the crop had ingested pieces of string that were stuck inside the crop causing discomfort (Feather Plucking).
The common giardia picking pattern usually involves the chest, underside of the wings, insides of the thighs, shoulders and sometimes the lower back region (Feather Plucking).
Diagnosis
Skin and Feather biopsy to determine if there are parasites (Terry, 2015)
Treatment
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/giardia.html
Psittacosis
Human transferable disease (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Persistent flu-like symptoms (Feather Plucking)
especially be considered in recently acquired parrots that come from pet stores or from breeders (Feather Plucking)
Have you or someone in your household been sick recently (Jones, 2015)?
Treatment
Fairly easy to treat with antibiotics (Feather Plucking).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/psittacosis.html
Malfunctioning Uropygial (oil gland)
A Vitamin D / Calcium Deficiency can also be caused by a malfunctioning uropygial or oil gland, as this gland produces vitamin D3 precursors that are spread into the feathers as the parrots preen themselves. Upon exposure to ultraviolet light, the precursors will be converted to active D3, which will then be ingested when the parrots preen themselves again. Therefore, the oil gland should be checked in feather picking parrots, and/or those that are suffering from seizures (Feather Plucking).
Signs
feather picking parrots, and/or those that are suffering from seizures (Feather Plucking).
Vitamin D and/or Calcium Deficiency (Jones, 2015)
Diagnosis
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Follow the direction of your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/birdoilgland.html
Heavy Metal Poisoning
Chronic low-grade Zinc exposure can result in excess barbering and feather picking (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Barbering and feather picking. Chronic low-grade Zinc exposure can result in excess barbering and feather picking (Feather Plucking).
Does your parrot enjoy chewing things (Feather Plucking)?
lethargy, lack of appetite, vomiting, increased thirst and watery dropping (Feather Plucking).
Once the liver problems have been resolved, it takes a while for the itching to stop (Feather Plucking).
Signs
Itchy, dry skin (Feather Plucking)
Treatment
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/liverdisease.html
Infections
When a parrot destroys their feathers in an irregular pattern, some experts believe that they might be picking feathers over the locations of infected air sacs because of respiratory problems, such as aspergillosis (Feather Plucking).
Signs
parrot destroys their feathers in an irregular pattern (Feather Plucking)
Diagnosis
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/aspergillosis.html
Yeast Infections
Signs
parrot destroys just the tail feathers (Jones, 2015)
Oder: most describe it as a sweet/bread smell, though I think it smells like a soured bird (Jones, 2015)
Diagnosis
Contact your avian vet, your vet may perform a gram stain (Jones, 2015).
Treatment
Contact your avian vet. Your vet may talk with you about medication such as Fluconazole or BeneBac (Beneficial Bacteria). Yogurt may also be recommended to reintroduce good bacterial (Jones, 2015).
Other Resources
Zinc Toxicity
Sources of zinc include: i.e., galvanized or powder-coated cages, quick-links or hardware, galvanized dishes, metallic toys - indeed any metallic, shiny object could be suspect (Feather Plucking).
Signs
picking feathers or showing signs of depression and gastrointestinal stasis (Feather Plucking).
Diagnosis
Your Vet will be able to measure zinc levels (Feather Plucking).
Treatment
Contact your avian vet (Jones, 2015)
Other Resources
http://beautyofbirds.com/toxicities.html
Environmental Toxins
such as pesticides on produce, exposure to cleaning products, air deodorizers, etc (Feather Plucking).
Signs
picking feathers or showing signs of depression and gastrointestinal stasis (Feather Plucking).
While some feather plucking is behavioral-based, often it is a sign of a more serious health issue. Dr. Susan Clubb will consultant with your vet (Heidenreich).
Dr. Susan Clubb 561-795-4878 (Jones, 2015)
References
Feather Plucking. (n.d.). Retrieved 2015, from Beauty of Birds: http://beautyofbirds.com/featherplucking.html
Hardy, DVM, D. (2015). (T. Jones, Interviewer) Nixa, MO, USA.
Heidenreich, B. (n.d.). Help for Parrot Behavior Problems - Barbara Heidenreich Answers Your Questions. YouTube.
Jones, T. (2015). Springfield, MO, USA.
Terry. (2015). Phone call with the receptionist at Dr. Susan Clubb's Office. (T. Jones, Interviewer) Springfield, MO, USA.
This is a hot topic and I so excited to tell you all my secrets to make it successful. I get asked at every show experience, "How do you train Kiwi, The Skateboarding Parrot?" We have tried several styles of training and we have found the 3 key elements to successful training. In this article, I am going to share with you one of those key elements to success: target training.
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Barbara Heidenreich is foremost my favorite expert on Approximation Training. To learn the full concept of approximation training you need to watch her video: 
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makes target training easy. It has a telescoping arm so it's easy to store and you can use it short or fulling extended for larger movements. Don't forget, keep reading this blog to learn more about target training.
